Jumping frogs (or, “en med det hele”)

I really must do something about my food photography. The other day I decided it was time for yet another violation of my (increasingly silly, as I’m coming to see it) aversion to mixing meat and bread. It was time for hotdogs.

Of course for the novice this poses all sorts of difficult decisions when shopping: what kind of sausage? What kind of roll? (Can I really just buy the ubiquitous – and decidedly unsexy – supermarket “hotdog rolls” that are no-brainers for schoolchildren?) What condiments?

In the end, dinner was modelled on what the Danes (bless their porky perversions) call “en med det hele” – or one with everything. If you order this at a Danish hotdog stand – and which I did for the Philosophe do when we were in that country, and he liked them so much he made me order them again and again – you get a basic (roll + sausage of your choice) plus mustard, ketchup, remoulade, crispy fried onions, raw onions, and cucumber relish.

Minus the remoulade and raw onions, we concocted something pretty damn good. Start by frying some smoked cabanossi (here the important factor is the knæk):


For the cucumber relish, I guess gherkins would work, but even better is this “salad” of thinly sliced cucumber that’s been marinating in vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper for a couple of hours (think crunchy salty sweetness):


Slice up an onion as fine as it gets, toss in a little flour and seasoning (Old Bay works well), then deep/shallow fry those babies until you get some good crunch:


Yes, I really must do something about my food photography. It’s a real problem, especially when you get to the best part, which is the combined action of assembly and eating. When I took this next picture I just knew it wasn’t going to do the thing justice. But perhaps I should be happy to report that when it comes down to it, the eating is far more important than getting a better shot. So you’ll just have to imagine the rest.


Did I already say this was good? It was.

Now I have to go hand-chop some rump steak for tonight’s burgers. If there are no decent pictures, you’ll understand.

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